Victoria’s Secret show returns after controversy

Models and pop stars took to the catwalk as the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show made its comeback, five years after being cancelled.

The lingerie brand’s catwalk show was scrapped after its 2018 edition drew low ratings as well as criticism that it was sexist, outdated and lacked diversity.

It returned on Tuesday in New York, where British supermodel Kate Moss, 50, made her debut at the event, with her 22-year-old daughter Lila also appearing on the runway.

The show also featured musical performances from Cher, Tyla and Blackpink’s Lisa.

The fashion show, which was launched in 1995, would ordinarily attract millions of viewers each year and big-name performers like Rihanna and Taylor Swift.

But ratings dropped and controversies plagued the brand. Its chief executive departed shortly after its 2018 show, which was watched on US TV by three million people – down from nine million four years earlier.

At the time, the New York Times declared Victoria’s Secret a name in “steady decline”, while the Wall Street Journal said it had “lost its appeal”.

In 2017, the event had been held in Shanghai, China, but hit problems when Katy Perry and Gigi Hadid were reporetedly denied visas.

Marketing head Ed Razek apologised in 2018 for comments he made about why transgender and plus-sized models were not featured on the runway.

Ashley Graham’s appearance as a plus-sized model was seen as a token gesture of body diversity by some

This year’s comeback promised to “celebrate all women”, with the company’s British chief design and creative officer Janie Schaffer telling WWD Victoria’s Secret had “moved on as a business so much over the last three years”.

Those on the catwalk on Tuesday included Brazilian model Valentina Sampaio, who became the first transgender model to represent Victoria’s Secret in 2019.

There was also an appearance from another transgender model, Alex Consani.

Plus-sized models including Ashley Graham and Paloma Elsesser also walked the famous runway, but some saw this as a token gesture considering the company’s history.

While Kate Moss’s appearance in a black lace dress and trademark angel wings was unexpected, a few familiar faces made their runway returns.

Gigi and Bella Hadid showcased a number of looks including matching red lingerie, with fan favourites Barbara Palvin and Candice Swanepoel also walking.

Former America’s Next Top Model host Tyra Banks, 50, appeared at the event for the first time since 2009.

Another model to make her return was Adriana Lima, who walked in 2018 before the show was scrapped.

Reaction to this year’s show has been mixed, with Harper’s Bazaar’s Dani Maher writing: “Were there any moments burned into my brain with similar urgency [to previous shows]? I’m not so sure.”

Schaffer highlighted its diversity, saying there were 50 models from 25 different countries.

But Maher wrote that despite this, “the runway was still overwhelmingly dominated by thin conventionally attractive models”.

This was echoed by Teen Vogue associate editor Aiyana Ishmael, who wrote: “As I watched thin model after thin model take the runway, I was catapulted right back to my childhood living room, watching women who didn’t look like me set a beauty standard most women will never meet.”