Soup: Cacciucco Alla Livornese

One of the great Mediterranean seafood soups is a thick and flavorful one that takes its name from the Tuscan port of Livorno or Leghorn. It is eaten generally as a main course and any visitor to this colorful coastal region will relish the memory of a luncheon of cacciucco at an outdoor restaurant. Like all seafood specialties of this area, the dish is not easy to duplicate elsewhere, as the local fruits of the sea are simply unavailable. Strange and spiny creatures such as octopus and shellfish provide a marvelous flavor.

Recipe

3 pounds of seafood ( suggestions include lobster, shrimp, cod, haddock, mackerel, snapper, sea bass, or rockfish.)

1 large onion, chopped.

2 to 3 garlic cloves, minced.

One-third to Half cup olive oil.

Half teaspoon crumbled dried sage.

2 medium bay leaves.

Salt, black and red pepper to taste.

One-quarter cup tomato paste.

Half cup dry white wine.

Garlic toast.

The Cooking

Cut the fish into good-sized serving pieces. If lobster is used, clean and separate the body from the claws. Cut into similar-sized pieces. Saute the garlic and onion in the oil, the amount according to taste, in a large kettle until tender. Add the sage, bay leaves, salt, and peppers, and mix well. Cook for 1 minute. Stir in the tomato paste and add the wine. Bring to a boil. Add the seafood and lower the heat. Cook very slowly, covering, for about 15 minutes, until the seafood is tender. (If the seafood varies considerably in texture, add the firmer pieces first and then the softer pieces.)

Meanwhile, prepare the garlic toast. Spread 6 or 12 pieces (one or two per serving) of crusty Italian bread with a mixture of crushed garlic and olive oil. Bake in a preheated moderate oven at 350 Ferehehhts for about 12 minutes, or until crisp. To serve, arrange the toast in large soup bowls. Put the pieces of seafood over the bread and spoon the broth over it. Or serve the broth separately.