Mixed reactions as Louis Vuitton transforms ‘Ghana Must Go’ bag into $3K luxury item

Luxury fashion powerhouse Louis Vuitton has sparked heated discussion across Africa after unveiling a designer bag clearly inspired by the continent’s iconic “Ghana Must Go” design.

Retailing between $595 and $3,000, the high-end piece has been criticised for failing to acknowledge the cultural and historical significance of its African origins.

For decades, the “Ghana Must Go” bag, a woven plastic tote with red, white, and blue check patterns, has symbolised migration, resilience, and survival across the continent.

The bag’s history dates back to 1983, during the mass expulsion of undocumented Ghanaians from Nigeria. Forced to leave the country within hours, many families hurriedly packed their belongings into these inexpensive market bags, a practical choice that became an enduring symbol of displacement.

As cultural historian Dr Nana Osei Quarshie observed in Africa Is a Country, “The bag is more than luggage. It’s a symbol of survival and displacement.”

Over time, the bag took on multiple local identities, Mwaudako in Namibia, Ukwa in Zambia, and Efiewura Sua Me in Ghana, reflecting its widespread use and cultural resonance.

Louis Vuitton’s fascination with the design is not new. In 2007, under creative director Marc Jacobs, the brand released a luxury leather-braided version of the checked tote for $595, a product that now sells for $1,200 to $2,500 on resale platforms. Meanwhile, the original plastic version can still be found at markets and taxi ranks across Africa for under R100.

The bag’s material traces back to Japan, where the red-white-blue nylon canvas was first produced before being exported to Taiwan and Hong Kong. Tailor Lee Wah reportedly created the first versions in the 1960s, initially as makeshift construction-site shelters before they evolved into affordable, durable carryalls.

Every African home has this bag. This bag has been in African homes for the past 20 years, invented in Africa. The entire design has been stolen by a luxury brand without giving credits pic.twitter.com/2iRFxqXnMr

— African Hub (@AfricanHub_) September 17, 2025

The re-emergence of Louis Vuitton’s “Ghana Must Go” design has reignited anger and amusement online. TikTok and Instagram users flooded social media with mixed reactions — some nostalgic, others indignant at what they perceive as cultural exploitation.

“These bags were stronger than many people’s relationships now,” joked user @ibrahim_kaii, while another wrote, “I didn’t think my eyes would see gentrified Ghana Must Go.”

The reaction reflects a familiar tension: admiration for craftsmanship paired with frustration over global luxury brands profiting from everyday African symbols without proper credit or cultural context.

For many Africans, Louis Vuitton’s reinvention of the humble bag is not a tribute but a reminder that what once carried people’s lives across borders is now being sold as a fashion statement.

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