An African Odyssey: A journey to the homeland
Ghana has endeavoured to take centre stage in the global arena in redefining Africa’s modern-day narrative and becoming the beacon of African transformation.
Ghana’s president, Nana Addo Dankwa Akufo Addo, declared 2019 as “The Year of Return”, a formal initiative with the quest to inspire the sons and daughters of Africa, living abroad to return to their ancestral home in the hopes of forging greater ties with Ghana and the African continent.
A parade of distinguished and influential black Hollywood celebrities was hosted by Ghana to witness our exceptional legacy, regal heritage and the celebration of our national grandeur. Unequivocally, this occasion imparted our guests with deeper wisdom about their ancestry and enriched their self-awareness and understanding.
I have vivid memories of sharing the same carefree joy, profound freedom and the warm gust of wind as I jumped off the plane in August 2017, after a long-hoped arrival of fifteen years to the motherland. Despite feeling extremely overwhelmed and uncertain, I had eagerly awaited this moment for many years, inspired by the tales of many foreign visitors to Ghana who often made me feel like a kid who missed out on the most talked-about and widely celebrated school event when recounting their holidays. I was filled with curiosity as I wondered if my African adventure would fulfil my set expectations.
I was intrigued to see how I would interact with people and if forming new connections would be easy, as I foresaw cultural differences posing a significant challenge. Yet, despite these concerns, I was determined to rediscover my roots. As I navigated the bustling streets of Accra, I was captivated by the beauty of the city. I was in complete disbelief; it felt unreal that this was Ghana. My reality was a paradox from the harsh and inconsistent western portrayals of a famished and underdeveloped Africa. It was genuinely astonishing to uncover the immense wealth and riches that Africa has as a continent, therefore, I felt a sense of duty to share with the world my discovery of this unknown but enchanted realm.
In and out of Accra, there is a clear indication of explosive growth and rapid expansion of Ghana’s economy. A multitude of high-rise buildings, detailed architectural structures, sophisticated skyscrapers and ultra-modern hotels flank the capital’s skyline, all illuminated by a fusion of colourful lights and a vibrant atmosphere, embodying the characteristics of global cities like London, Milan, New York and Tokyo. Accra buzzed with excitement and liveliness, and it was extremely fast paced.
Weddings, ceremonies, and funerals are customary in Ghanaian culture and are widely celebrated in the city. Other activities and events including traditional festivals such as the Homowo festival and contemporary festivals like AfroFuture, Global Citizen, and the Chale Wate festival were part of the scene as well as concerts headlined by world-class performers and parties like the annual all-white party, Little Havana every December and other social gatherings arranged by the city’s finest restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. Ghanaians truly embrace any opportunity to celebrate and given the never-ending array of events and new locations to explore each day, I felt compelled to make the most of every cultural experience.
The dynamic colours of the trotros brightened the hot and humid days and the quotes adorning the rear windshield were an engaging distraction from Accra’s chaotic “go-slow”. The city was filled with people who had mastered overcoming their challenges with a positive and easy-going resolve. Their welcoming gestures and friendly demeanour created a sense of belonging and comfort. Every corner of Accra hid a treasure trove of pleasant surprises and encounters. From children who danced to rhythms emitted from open market stalls, loud chants of market women to street hawkers and hustlers seeking sales opportunities from passing vehicles.
I felt profoundly inspired and hopeful, igniting a strong entrepreneurial drive. Knowing the local Akan dialect, Twi, was essential for navigating the environment effectively and having an authentic Ghanaian experience; it was particularly convenient for practising my bargaining skills – saving some extra cedis always came in handy. All my apprehensions ahead of my trip concerning necessities and social amenities were levelled. The country had everything that I required, desired and more. Life seemed easy! In a moment of self-reflection, I questioned several issues, above all, the reasons behind my parents’ choice to migrate to Europe, Italy, in search of greener pastures, considering that my father worked for the government of Ghana alongside the current speaker of the Fourth Republic, Alban Sumana Kingsford Bagbin.
Over time, I became more grounded in my Ghanaian identity; I became so accustomed to the way of life that I did not want to leave. Against all odds, I persuaded my mother to allow me to stay as she returned to London, which extended my one-month holiday into a year-long stay. This was my chance to shed my tourist cloak and immerse myself deeper in this venture. A young girl alone in a faraway land, embarking on a journey of self-discovery and enthusiastic about exploring the endless possibilities of the homeland. I was bursting with excitement knowing that this was going to be my most daring adventure yet!
Shortly after my mother’s departure, I started to feel a gradual shift. It felt like I had stepped into a new reality. I began to notice subtle signs of hostility from the people I was surrounded by and the new spaces I would find myself in. I distinctly remember the time I was seeking employment and experienced nepotism firsthand, an encounter that was entirely new to me. And some in extreme scenarios, I would receive job offers dependent on my willingness to satisfy certain obligations.
Living in the UK, the societal structure is predominantly founded on meritocracy and equal opportunity, however, in Ghana, it is a different ball game. It was deeply troubling to witness a pervasive system that enabled individuals of higher socioeconomic status to leverage their networks and connections to secure employment and receive preferential treatment and favours for family and friends. I often
wondered about the fate of those who lacked comparable privileges yet merited such prospects. Furthermore, as an Italian native of black heritage who has fought tirelessly to seek recognition and inclusion, facing this kind of discrimination in my homeland was simply disheartening and unjustifiable.
Upon my arrival in Ghana, this year, I experienced yet another unsettling incident while staying in a rented apartment in Cantonments, an affluent neighbourhood of Accra and home to various diplomatic missions in Ghana. One fateful evening at around 10:20 pm, a security guard on duty in my estate broke into my apartment through my bedroom window.
A traumatic ordeal that has caused me to feel highly anxious about my safety and has left me frightened to date. My nights became restless, I would constantly feel uneasy when alone, and I would have recurring flashbacks of the incident, to the degree that it has impacted my emotional and mental well-being.
Even though the incident was officially reported to the authorities, and some investigations were subsequently carried out, the case has been disregarded. Yet, in Ghana, unlawful entry is an offense which carries a 5-year imprisonment penalty. Aggravating the distress was the indifferent attitude and the complete lack of communication and acknowledgement from the landlady and senior executives of the estate. I was entirely wronged and victimised, and my human dignity and respect were violated. I found myself trapped in a profound abyss of despair and left to bear my struggles, frustrations and the consequences of this act. I felt vulnerable and defenceless; I was a lone and lost stranger in my country.
It became apparent that the cheerful expressions of many were a front to conceal their opportunistic and selfish nature. I was completely confused, and I felt unable to trust and understand those around me any longer, leading me to question the moral integrity, empathy, and compassion of some Ghanaians particularly the critical nature of Ghana’s criminal justice system.
I relived the exact sentiments upon learning that my father’s property and investment of 24 years was stolen from him. His blood, sweat, and tears have amounted to nothing, leaving my family to restore all that has been lost and unjustly taken away from us. I wonder how people can be so cruel and inflict such undeserving suffering and how can someone’s pain become someone else’s gain?
Society cannot entirely eradicate all forms of social ills and injustice; however, Ghanaians must understand that every member of society is integral to promoting the nation’s development, regardless of the extent of their participation. It is imperative to set clear standards and provide constructive examples of what should be considered morally right and acceptable. Ghana can fulfil this merit. The nation can demonstrate exemplary global leadership and embody an unshakable foundation of national stability.
We must firmly uphold the fundamental beliefs and principles safeguarded by our rule of law and democracy, because in our enduring struggle against tyranny and oppression, we pledged to boldly defend forever the cause of freedom and of right; a dream that many relentlessly fought and dearly sacrificed, for the essence of our humanity and the lifeblood of our nation. An honour and legacy inspired by those who came before us. Ghana must be a force for good, a nation unwavering in its efforts to build a more just, equal, and freer society where all
individuals have the right to dignity, justice and a shared prosperity that transcends gender, tribe, status, religious views and political divide. As a policy advisor for the Government of the United Kingdom, I recognise that this is the principal means for the effective functioning of Ghanaian democracy.
We must acknowledge that an injustice committed against anyone is a threat to everyone, therefore, significant actions must be taken to effect change and address the challenges of the present. It is possible to achieve such, nothing is out of reach. The future of Ghana is a cause worth fighting for the common good of all.
God bless our homeland!
The author, Erika Sama, is a Ghanaian-Italian policy advisor and project manager who lives in London and works for the United Kingdom government.