Soups: Austrian Rindsuppe

Of all the great Austrian soups, the star of the repertoire is beef soup, Rindsuppe. It serves many culinary roles, however. The meat and vegetables cooked in it can be taken out and served as a meal. The bouillon or stock is then strained and clarified and used to enrich other dishes or is served by itself as a clear bouillon.

The latter generally has the addition of any of a number of garnishes such as noodles, semolina, rice, a diverse selection of dumplings, strips of unsweetened cooked pancakes, a raw egg yolk or egg, julienne-cut vegetables, or an Austrian specialty, deep-fried dough ”peas” called Backerbsen. The clear broth plus the added garnish acquire the name of the latter. Thus one with liver dumplings is called Leberknodelsuppe.

Austrian cooks have devised many ways of preparing this soup, and no two recipes are the same. Each is made with the finest of ingredients. This recipe is one variation and can be eaten as a regular soup or, as in Austria, with the meat and vegetables removed, the bouillon clarified, and served with a favorite garnish.

INGREDIENTS

2 to two and a half pounds of beef bones, cracked.

3 pounds soup beef, chuck, or other beef.

3 tablespoons butter or vegetable oil.

3 quarts water.

Salt, and pepper to taste.

1 large onion, thinly sliced.

2 medium leeks, white parts only, cleaned and thinly sliced.

2 medium carrots, scraped and thinly sliced.

1 celeriac, celery root, pared and cubed.

3 small turnips, pared and cubed.

2 cups cut-up cauliflower.

4 sprigs parsley.

2 medium bay leaves.

Half teaspoon dried thyme.

The COOKING

Scald the bones and rinse in cold water. Wipe dry the meat. Heat the butter in a large kettle and brown the meat in it on all sides. Add the bones, water, salt, and pepper. Slowly bring to a full simmer and remove any scum from the top. Cook over very low heat, parlially covered, for one and a half hours.

Again, remove any scum from the top. Add the remaining ingredients and continue to cook until the vegetables and meat are tender, about 1 hour longer. Remove and discard the parsley sprigs and bay leaves. Take out the meat and cut it into bite-size pieces, discarding any bones and gristle. Return the meat to the soup. Serves 8 to 10.